Do this for about 10 prints, and then the next time you wipe it with the damp rag, apply glue again. After another 10-20 prints, clean the plate with soap and water, dry it, then reapply glue. I have a P1S equivalent (fully upgraded, enclosed P1P) and only print PLA. Some light scrubbing to get the glue off but if you are going for smooth it works well in my opinion. You may wind up having to replace the sticker if you can’t get it off without damaging it. The Cool Plate is basically just BuildTak, which can’t take high heat (70+) for long periods of time, which is why the slicer is trying to prevent you from using it for anything besides PLA. Apply some good coats, let it dry and you’re good to go. In my experience the setting to smooth plate is the best. Other warping strategies are based on filament; remember too hot a bad can make PLA warp whereas the opposite is true for ABS. Bambu build plate glue & vent guide. Knew it will damage the plate without glue. One can only dream. The model on the right was printed on the Bambu cool plate using glue stick. What i was tryna say was everyone is like “how come the keeper p1p comes with a pei plate and the x1 doesn’t even though it’s more expensive” but no one has talked about how the x1 has lidar and bambu labs states they do not recommend using pei with the x1, so i was just wondering if anyone has tired the lidar with the x1 SavingsAd4126. I still have yet to flip mine over as I'm still using my original cool plate (which is just a consumable sticker on the other side) exclusively without issues. 3DLAC spray. I see the sheets are consumable and can go on the engineering plates. As well as a toy boat model per P1S. Explain to me what I don't know/understand about the Cool Plate and it's capabilities. Included Cool Plate is a failure to me. I am printing an heroquest dice, which has intricate faces, no matter where you put it on the plate, and the bottom part always comes very squished…. Bambu Textured PEI plate opinions. By the time the X1 finishes its precheck, the plate will be dry. If you up the bed temp to 55 degrees it will work. Honey Badger is smooth PEI on one side and textured on the other. • 1 yr. Apr 5, 2024 ยท pyrotechnicmonkey. Since I got my X1C 3 days ago I've been really struggling to get PLA, of all things, to produce a nice first layer. The other 5% I print PETG on cool plate with no glue. Members Online • ChocolateCooke . 07 for textured plate. pyrotechnicmonkey. lol. For sure, it does take longer — which maybe works against the idea of it being a blazing fast printer. Agreed. Can confirm hot water - I use a clean dish rag damp with hot water. Today I have received a Cool Plate, High Temperature Plate and Textured Plate and noticed discrepancies between what I received and the photos on the Bambu Lab store. New “Effects” Build Plates. 5mm thick, and a Lightyear G10 Plate which is roughly ~1. Noise is a huge issue for me, so keeping the unit enclosed during printing is a must. Considering that flow calibration should be turned off when using PEI Plate (textured one from bambulab) I've read on reddit that you should run flow calibration on cool plate, then switch plate to PEI and everything will go smooth. Now clean your plate with dish soap and warm water, afterwards soak the water with paper towel so it doesn't have any water left, apply a thin coat of glue across the surface of the plate unified. Was hoping to keep printing on my A1 while waiting on a replacement heat bed. I only have experience printing PLA on the cool plate and use glue because of the above statement. Look down the page at notice: 1. Get the Reddit app Here we discuss everything related to Bambu Lab 3D printers. Official. Release the print. Printing PLA on cool plate has slightly lifted corners and needs glue. Basically wanting a Prusa smooth sheet experience on the Bambu. Honestly, I'd just buy from AliExpress. I ordered after hearing about the camera, so it came pre-installed. It only says PLA on the front lip. Always bed leveling before printing again. It's not so bad when it's large object but This is with my P1S, not sure about the lack of QR code with the X1C, but I think you can just manually set it. Adhesion issues on PEI plate (X1C) I bought a PEI plate a few months back, and I had terrible problems getting anything to stick. In those cases is not uncommon that prints just snap out of the plate mid print. Bambu Lab Store just turned two and our biggest sale is now live! ๐ŸŽ‰. Qjeezy. 5mm thick. It's called the Cool Plate because the default bed temp is 35C and only used for filaments that work with cooler bed temps (PLA/TPU). It works fine, the complaints are mostly that you need to use a gluestick for proper adhesion and most people have moved to build plates that don't require glue. Get the Reddit app Poor quality of new Cool Plate Discussion Locked post Hello u/7DollarsOfHoobastanq!Be sure to check the following. I tested 6 different print sheet adhesives with PETG on the Bambu cool plate. There are 4 Build Plate Profiles in the Bambu Studio. 07. Cool Plate. Texture PEI plate adhesion recommendations. do a factory reset then redo the calibration. I’m printing a lot of PLA as well as PETG. I’ve had major success with the following configuration: PEI bed plate with Bambu Lab liquid glue. High Temp Plate. I use high temp plate setting with the smooth ones and textured with the textured side (even though the seller says to always use the textured setting, seems to work better with high temp) 2. Just rinse it off with water. Put it on the printer bed and heat it up to about 80 and see if it comes off then. • 1 day ago. I’ve been printing 24/7 since the printer came earlier in the week and have 0 adhesion problems. Plus, if these were different plates then the Multi-Temperature combo from their accessories section won't make sense. alexsanchezp. Don’t use the glue stick though, it comes off clumpy on the textured surface. 1mm thicker and the plate is heavier. It also appears they are using a finer powder coat, similar to 3rd party plates I've used which have much better adhesion than the black Bambu PEI plate. Brims are helpful if you don't mind them. On the other hand, I do know glue is used to achieve a stickier print bed. If only there was some quick and high quality way to print 2D guides like this. It slid right off. Save Big on your favorite 3D printers!๐ŸŽ. and 2. It’s a perfect 10/10. Wipe the plate with a damp rag/sponge. Hot plate is better for compatibility but lots of us have cool plates as default with printer. It has a real grippiness. bed temp, first layer: 55 (down from 65) bed temp, subsequent layers: 45 (down from 65) So here’s a comparison for those new to 3D printing. When printing multicolor I would have a lot of failures with the PEI plate not sticking when doing small text. I used the high temperature pei sheet on the cool plate that comes with the The printer came with 1 reusable spool filled with 750g of white Basic PLA. How does this fit together? Hey guys, hope everyone is doing good today. Never had a problem printed PLA with out glue, just use a skirt and wipe down with 99% alcohol in-between prints. 55C works great for me, which is the default for the high temp plate. increase bed temp to 65ºC. Use the Engineering plate. I think i phrased it weird. If you are using glue on the plate, it should release as it cools. Anyway, the print was 3h05m at the standard High Temp Plate temp of 55C for PLA. What I found works best for the cool plate, is clean it extremely well with soap and water. PLA and TPU. The Wham Bam plate comes with a little QR sticker that will "trick" the printer and not throw off the warning. No you can't. 3. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. That forms a lovely interference barrier. You have replacement stickers for the cool plate. Bambulabs advised that the textured PEI plate is the best way to get this to work due to the small surface area. Tip: Use glue next time. Matte 100% need glue every time. Both worked perfectly with the X1C using the "High Temp Plate" setting in Studio. Without hair spray it sticks to much. Thanks for the tip. For $11 you get a double sided plate and shipping is usually included or just a few bucks extra. Got the next batch of P1S delivered today and they all came with this new look bambu stamped textured pei plate. I've done the most common steps: recalibrated the printer Hi everyone, I've been experimenting for a while now with several substances to find the perfect interface release layer, so my prints would easily come off the cool plate. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns. Use IPA or if you have non water and soap. Others say the textured plate settings are fine. Its FPS is shockingly low, on average perhaps only 1-2fps. The ethyl acetate might be too strong of a solvent and judging by your experience, it dissolves the cool plate surface. select and unselected bed leveling before the print. Members Online • bloodfist45. Worked like a champ. Question in title. The Energetic plate will cause a warning on the printer unless you disable bed detection. All of Bambu’s plates are garbage. The cool plate has an ‘Engineering’ surface on the flip side…. I never use a glue stick and print PLA 90% of the time on a cool plate. packet_weaver. Award. I purchased the High temp smooth plate and started using it and I noticed the fan is much more nosier with this build Here we discuss everything related to Bambu Lab 3D printers. Yeah it’s pretty confusing, but the gist is that it seems like they’re phasing out the old (sticker) plates (Cool/Engineering & High Temp) for the new permanent sheet plates (Textured PEI and Smooth PEI). Expect less adhesion than with a clean, glue free, cool plate. Reply. Yes. The model on the left was printed with the Energetic textured pei plate from AliExpress. I accidentally printed out my tax return on my Ender3 last year. I finally gave up trying to smooth the bubbles out after The cold plate suscks as it’s Bambu’s proprietary coating that’s inferior in ever way to smooth pei sheets or wham bams offering. On the website the Cool Plate is advertised as being useable with PLA however the one I received says PLA, PETG and ABS. Cool plate with hair spray works well with PLA. Probably a clogged nozzle. If they replace the cool plate with a pei plate stock, im happy with it. I let the print proceed. For the best experience, we recommend getting a thin piece The Bambu Cool Plate is a Bambu Engineering Plate with a Cool sheet that has already been applied to the underside, giving you the use of both sides. If you continue having sticking problems even after doing the wash etc others have mentions, a light coat of the Bambu liquid glue works well on the PEI plate and doesn’t spoil the surface pattern too much. Jun 12, 2024 ยท It’s pretty popular on the Bambu Lab discord where the owner, Ben, is pretty active and helps out people that are interested in/purchase his plates. Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Click here now: Bambu Lab Store 2nd Anniversary My basic understanding is the engineering plate is just powder coating on the spring steel. In answer to your question, the high temp smooth PEI plate is the best for adhesion without glue. It's more info but I don't know if the lower temp will take longer since both my experiences so far have been a partially botched experiment and a happy accident. The glue sorta acts as an adhesive but also helps release the printed models too. The last 5% is TPU on textured PEI plate. g. Only build plate I've used is the cool plate that came with it. Edit more: The info is written in the notice on every one of Bambu's build plates on their site. We're stoked to celebrate this milestone with you awesome folks. I just take the plate off after letting it cool for a few minutes, flex it, and parts pop right off without needing a scraper. Beautiful surface ( mirror like) I tried it due to bubbles on the cold plate side. The cool plate is trash, with or without glue the PEI surface is the way to go. Otherwise textured PEI all the way. After several dozen prints you can print normal PLA on the cool plate if it has a small foot print, under 50x50mm but the bottom texture will be whitish from the crazy adhesion after you take it off, it just won’t damage the plate. And upping bed temp to 65. Reply reply &nbsp; &nbsp; The glue stick on the bamboo is there to act as a release agent. It turned out that this Nano Liquid Spray works amazingly well. When Bambu original had the cool plate and the black textured PEI plate, the cool plate had much better adhesion. Flex the plate and the parts should pop right off. I've been using the textured plate and the cool plate that comes with the printer. ago. The BL liquid glue can be handy for jobs like this. Modifying the slicing settings can help. If you do a full clean with detergent, then give a liberal coat of Windex and let it dry. Raised a support ticket with Bambu Labs, they said it was a consumable item and I should buy another one, I told them that UK consumer law says if a product develops defects within the first 6 months of ownership, and the manufacturer can't prove it's been mis used then manufacturer has to repair or replace, but Bambu Lab said because of the I’m using the cold plate and my glue stick is still in the box. Pretty cool looking. Cool plate isn’t worth it 99% of the time. My engineering plate was re-coated for printing POM/PP/PPS. I tested each method by thoroughly cleaning the print sheet first, printing a 5x50x50 cube, letting it cool down for 5 minutes after printing and inspecting the result. Ordered my Bambulab X1 Carbon a few days ago! Coming from a Prusa i’m not used to put glue stick on my print plates. Bambu tells you to use glue stick to protect the plate in the instructions, e. You could still print cool and with glue, but the appeal of the textured plate is that the higher heat and PEI coating means you don't need to use glue. Yes it's the sample pla, will try it thx! 62K subscribers in the BambuLab community. It's actually a common mistake. You can print PLA perfectly on the cold plate 10 out of 10 times. Now print anything that is not in the printer, the files there are mostly corrupt especially the benchy, slice your own files in the Bambu studio. Here is a link to Bambu's build plates. While the control interface is pretty dogshit on the P1 series, I only used it when I used my printer the very first time as now I mostly use Bambu Studio and Bambu Handy. The Bambu filament wiki indicates that the Engineering plate is compatible with PETG, which uses 65-75C heated surface. So, I went back to the cool plate and haven't had issues. I know bambulab recommends to use the cold plate for PLA, and works great! But sometimes you just want the nice finish the PEI plate has. Welcome to Bambu Lab! Here we discuss everything related to Bambu Lab 3D printers. It requires glue in order to avoid damaging it. If I need to use PEI one I absolutely need to open something because the chamber fan isn't sufficient to cool down the chamber and PLA will warp. I'd like to know how often you should run the flow calibration, lets say that you never change the filament on The cool plate does not say it’s for PETG. manually drop the Z offset in the slicer to 0. So far, the gold PEI plates have surpassed my expectations. **Comments** The stock choice of cool plate + Engineering Plate makes the most sense in my opinion. I might have to do more testing with that surface since it can't bubble like the PEI sticker. It happened to me before but I was using a . I'll preface by saying I printed the bambu scraper and never cleaned with anything except soap Textured PEI plates have a few advantages over the cool plate. Unless you are only printing PLA, best advice is to have 2 different plates to cover the majority of materials: Engineering/cool and PEI (smooth or textured). This can be desirable depending on what you're printing. By the way, for PETG you always have to do that, regardless of which bed you're using, because PETG will pretty much fuse with anything. The Bambu high temp plate is smooth PEI on one side and engineering on the other. Settings to print in bambu studio is changing the plate to smooth plate. and you will read specifically about this mark that the hotend makes on the bed surface. Textured PEI would be nice but I sometimes add text at print bottom so that may not work. I've just never seen cold plates recommended until Bambu hit the scene. Simply letting the plate cool to <40C allows the PETG parts to pop off with even less effort than before, even just removing the build plate from the magnetic bed is enough to completely release an entire plate full of printed parts. But then I have to glue it also every time. So I’m thinking to buy the Bambu Texutred PEI plate, I’ll be mainly printing PLA (CF), PETG (CF) and ABS. This will help extract the heat from the plate a bit faster. Textured PEI Plate. I do full calibrations between prints and have never scratched a plate yet ๐Ÿคž. The cool plate is glued. Otherwise, give it a quick flex to pop it loose. I have printed ABS on the engineered plate no glue once cooled. Without that film, separating the printed models would quickly be damaged from me hammering, scraping, trying to lift up the objects. So realistically, they want to tighten their supply chain and discontinue stuff that it’s not the best option. VagabondElf. And Getting you to pay for sticker sheets like it’s 2017. My advice to you is this, if you got spare cash to burn then by all means go for X1C otherwise go for P1S. The plate that originally came with the X1C was Cool Plate on one side (only for PLA, 35C plate temp) and Engineering plate on the other Now swap the cool plate with the one you want from ali express. Looks a little better after alot of scrubbing. Cool Plate - Ridiculous Adhesion. However, I want/beed to do some prints using the dual textured PEI plate Just wash gently with warm water and dawn dish soap after every few prints and there's never any adhesion problems with PLA or PETG, etc. I have the Bambu lab pei plate which works fairly well, but my go to has been a non-marked pei plate from alibaba. Is the Cool Plate designed to print PLA at room temperature? Question. I do not want to ruin my heating plate from the printer. HELP! What is this break on my Cool Plate? I finished printing a bed holder and then I noticed this in my cool plate, anyone care to explain? I'm assuming the PLA/PETG/ABs sticker broke? if so, this was on my 4th print, is that it, I should basically replace it? FYI 3Dlac is rebranded 80s hairspray - it is basically a solution of PVAc in some solvents (mostly alcohol) beware that it has a glass transition of arount 80 to 90°C - so if you intend to use it on the high temp plate for ASA or ABS, it can act more like a release agent. A cool plate (if you don’t have already) and reducing elephant foot value is where I would start. Eg, turn off the auxiliary fan (which can cause curling and adhesion failures in some models) PEI is definitely less adhesive than the cool plate. Adhesion is excellent so far as well, all I did was Those textured PEI plates need a bit of "squish" to get adhesion. since i got rid of my old 3D Printer now, only have the textured PEI Sheet that came with the P1P now - sometimes i need to print parts, with a smooth bottom layer and was thinking about just buying another build plate. For example, printing a multi-colour sign face-down will create something that doesn't look like it was 3d printed. Please see the attached photos for reference. Pre-Release New PLA Plate! Surprised I haven’t seen anyone talk about it yet; the instructions say to share on social media so here ya go! I got this as part of the pre release beta that they asked for volunteers for a while back. Even prints whit a high surface compared to their height (coasters for example) Here we discuss everything related to Bambu Lab 3D printers. They’re reinventing the wheel by turning into a square. It's like $15 total and only takes 10 days or less to get to you if you're US based. The spring steel sheet is a bit thicker, can confirm from the product page that it's . For Bambu surfaces, we recommend scuffing the engineering plate with fine grit sand paper, then cleaning it with soap and water. 02. In fact. No scraper included and printed one lasted few times before edge came off. Probably because the sticker is easy to damage, and it was original to avoid heat creep. So I was thinking about using the back side of the cool plate to test. But I also use the pei sheet, so you may be able to take it off sooner. Reply reply Top 2% Rank by size So I placed an order for quite a few cool plates after hearing they might bis discontinued. I don't see anywhere to just order the engineering plate and that makes me assume the cool and hot plate come pre attached to a brand new one. SO - is the Engineering side of the The cool plate sticker is bad. I've flipped it a few times for some small TPU projects but that's it. Literally the moment the print head moves away and the bed starts lowering. Engineering Plate. The default is 55 but I find that some filaments like between 60-65. I saw recently that the cool plate is discontinued and I still have the 2 spare cool plate sheet stickers that came with my X1C, but I noticed they have the high temp smooth plate. Using included glue stick from first print and it's a pain to remove prints. In order to protect the Bambu Cool Plate from damage and increased wear, always use Bambu glue stick or liquid glue in order to protect the print surface and ensure an easy release of the printed parts. So I have to switch between the cool plate and engineering plate. •. Generally, the smooth or textured PEI surface is a much more reliable and better option. (note: I haven’t washed the glue off yet). The cool plate works fine on PLA for me for items that have large surface areas on them usually, though I have to use glue and perhaps still might need to raise the temp to 40 or 45 (max cool plate temp). On my P1P enclosed I always use cold plate (with glue) for PLA keeping everything closed for noise and I think it's the best solution. I had 0 issues with Bambu Studio (or later orca-slicer) viewing the camera. BL sent me half FP001 and the other half FP001-1 but nonidea why The 001 variant has much better packing but not sure how else the product differs l. It also says the cool plate is NOT recommended. Glue isn't needed. Bed Weld will then be able to coat the surface properly. clean it with isopropyl alcohol. . New look bambu textured pei plate. Make sure print bed is clean by washing with dish soap and water [and not Isopropyl Alcohol], check bed temperature [increasing tend to help], run bed leveling or full calibration, and remember to use glue if one is using the initial cool plate [not Satin finish that is not yet released] or Engineering plate. They're really just engineering plates with stickers on them. I typically reapply the Windex every other print. filing / scrubbing the plate with a fine sandpaper. on the store page for the cool sheet, but it's also in the printers instructions somewhere I think. Oh, also, I bought an X1C during this sale and I can give a data point that the QR code on the plates works on my brand new X1C (I have heard that other people have had Ive got X1C Combo few days ago and so far I'm impressed with printer in general when it comes to print quality. 5. cool plate is for trash can and with engineering / hot / textured you can print every filament the bambu can print. 1. The texture of the plate transfers to the underside of the model. - Setup process was easy. Bambu Lab says, it should be used so that printed parts easier come off. Best QOL upgrade IMO. then wipe off with iso, then apply a coat of glue that covers the entire build plate. since it is diluted so much, you only need a very tiny amount compared to Bed Weld works by helping parts adhere at hot temperatures but releases the parts when the bed cools. Looking at High Temp PEI plate - Seems good for smooth PLA prints (no glue is a plus)? Bubbling is a bit of a worry though. Tried hot water with a drop of dish soap. When the print is completed, take the plate out and put in on a cool or cold surface like a granite top like I did (2-3 minutes). If you specifically want a smooth finish, use hot or cool plates depending on filament. On parts where it doesn't matter, textured PEI plate all the way. It is 100% suppose to do that, and a necessary part of prepping the hotend tip. Never ever used anything else than just hot water and soap. Here we discuss everything related to Bambu Lab 3D printers. I've given up trying to use the Cool Plate sticker on my X1's steel build plate. Planning on doing some PETG soon though, so that's about to change. The glass removal thing is more about the high print temperature that comes with cranking the heat of the bed higher. r/BambuLab. Also, I'd rather buy a bottle of glue Hello u/1userusernameuser1!Be sure to check the following. 4mm nozzle, the manufacturer of the filament (formfutura) recommends NOT letting the filament cool inside the nozzle after a print and use an abrasive filament right after printing to extrude the remainder of wood from the hotend. A1 Mini Cool plate The unofficial but Wish there was a Prusa Satin sheet comparable. PSA the cool plate is redundant and pointless. The official docs recommended regular hot water and soap, or isopropyl alcohol (which Print on engineering plate at 50C with no glue. Supposed to use glue on the cool plate to keep the pla from sticking too much. just updated my printer to 01. Flipper Zero is a portable multi-tool for pentesters and geeks in a toy-like body. After about 10 hours of printing PLA on it, the sticker started to bubble up in various spots, which only got worse when I printed ASA on the Engineering side of the plate. They both work quite well with my silk PLA filaments. The glue is to help remove the print from the cool plate not help it stick It's best to start with an absolutely clean plate, fresh and even coat of glue (depending on scenario), if you don't want to chance an adhesion issue. I've had the X1C for few months now, ran a couple of KGs through it. My prints have turned out significantly better since i started using it. The glue is reactivate and you print again. No glue stick and no funky texture. I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. But how do you do the switch between the plates? I can clean it, every time I switch. xdawnielx. I didn’t realize it was a thing (I’m using PLA or PLA+) Using Bambu Studio default slice settings other than changing the infill. My rule of thumb is to wait until the fan turns off. Hello u/stalchild_af!Be sure to check the following. The engineering plate is far superior works just as good as a pei plate, I do not understand why Bambu say it's not recommended for pla, just change the filament settings on pla to heat the plate to 55c and boom perfect adhesion and release every time. One reason is the difference in finish on the bottom layer. I print PLA on that plate at 65 C and have no adhesion problems. It loves to hack digital stuff around such as radio protocols, access control systems, hardware and more. The cool plate setting sets the bed to 35C, which is very low for PEI. Bad PLA first layer adhesion on cold plate. Both say cool plate replacement sticker on packing, see pictures. Dissatisfied with gluestick, I tested alternatives, here are my findings. Often it simply fails to stick, goops up around the nozzle at various stages during the printing process and its driving me nuts. FWIW: I regularly swap plates out between a BL High Temp Plate with a thickness of roughly ~0. It will damage the PEI. Well, after some experiments my results are similar to SavingsAd4126's. Just be careful with the cool plate. The plate literally says PETG (in the real world) In the latest update, they changed ABS and PETG to the Engineering plate, both for performance and durability (the engineering plate isn’t a sticker). ADMIN MOD Do I need to remove the cool plate Make a print. It's been a wild ride packed with innovation, creativity, and of course, tons of 3D printing fun! ๏ธ. so vq od yh cc ba ud fy mx mi